Sylvia Mac Neil is known for her charming and detailed construction drawings, and her stockings pattern doesn’t disappoint in this respect. However, it often helps to have additional sources of information. Sometimes we just need to see something being done, up close and personal. So with this in mind, I’m going to photograph each of the steps as I go along, in hopes it can help demystify that fiddly little part where the sole gets attached.
Before you can do the sole, you have to seam the center back of each stocking, starting with the heel and continuing up the back to the top. Sylvia suggests using a backstitch, which I’ve found to be a successful choice for getting a good, solid seam on stretchy knits. When I adjusted the pattern to fit Maddie, I allowed about 1/16″ for seams. I’ve found anything more creates too much bulk.
After dong the tiny backstitching, go back and overcast the seam (I actually use blanket stitches for this).
Now it’s time for the sole. If you try to do this all at once, it’s pretty awkward. I’ve found the easiest thing is to start with the straight portion of the sole. I like to pin the center, where the heel seam of the upper stocking needs to be flattened out, first. Then I match the corners at each end, sticking a pin through the imaginary dots at the corners of the sole seam allowance, and the corners of the stocking seam allowance. I don’t pin those ends firmly in place. I pin next to, and between them, and use my needle to actually match them perfectly as I sew.
Once the straight part of the seam is finished and overcast, then you can pin the curved portion, using the ends of the straight part of the seam as starting and stopping points for the curved portion. Notice once again, I’ve only stuck a pin through the corner, rather than pinning in and back out as I’ve done with the remaining pins.
To finish, overcast the curved portion of the seam and then finish the upper edge of the stocking with a simple narrow hem.
The more times you do this, the easier it becomes. So don’t give up if your first pair is less than perfect. The next pair will be better, I promise!