As I frequently need to remind the girls, we are NOT a museum. In many circumstances we have to “make do” with fabrics or trims which are appropriate, if not perfect, for their dresses.
But.
We do have an immense collection of old things in our care. And from time to time, a piece I want to use is fragile. So I’ve had to learn to stabilize things, and I like to do it the “right” way whenever possible.
By now you know I’m nutty that way. . .
The most common method for dealing with weakened fabric areas is to attach a backing. This second piece of fabric should be the same fiber content as the antique textile, and 80 wt. thread and a fine needle (size 11, 12, or beading needles are best) should be used. In a pinch, if you don’t have the correct color of 80 wt. thread, you can substitute a single strand of embroidery floss.
I’m using a fine cotton voile to back this antique cotton. And the stitch used to attach the backing is called Self Couching Stitch. To begin, you take a long stitch parallel to the grain in either direction (see below). The beginning and end of this long stitch should be anchored in stable fabric areas, beyond where the weakened area ends.
After this, you take small stitches at a right angle, to hold down the long stitch.
You continue the process until the entire weakened area has been stabilized. Note that these stitches will be less noticable if you vary the distance between them, and don’t line them up with each other.
Now obviously, you wouldn’t do this in a contrasting color as I have. That was just so you could see the stitches. But if you look at the photo below, you can see what it looks like when you use matching thread. The hole on the left has been strengthened and will not spread. It doesn’t look much different from the hole to its right, thanks to the fine thread.
You can’t make the holes go away with this method, or with any other that I know of. But it is, after all, antique fabric. It shouldn’t have to bother about looking like something it’s not.
Nor should I, by the way. But that’s a completely different kettle of fish. . .